Old Dubai Walk: Al Fahidi, Old Souk, Abra Ride & Al Shindagha

The classic Old Dubai walk takes about 3 to 4 hours: start in the Al Fahidi Historical Neighbourhood, walk through the Bur Dubai Old Souk (the Textile Souk) to Al Shindagha Museum, cross Dubai Creek by abra for AED 1, then explore the Spice, Gold and Perfume Souks in Deira. The souks open roughly 10am to 10pm, but many stalls close from about 1pm to 4pm and on Friday they open only in the late afternoon, so either start at 9am or go from 4pm into the evening, which is the liveliest time. Al Fahidi and the souks are free; Al Shindagha Museum costs AED 50 for adults. Wear comfortable shoes and modest clothing, carry some cash, and haggle politely.

On this page

1. The walk, stop by stop
2. Opening hours and the closure cue
3. Two ways to do it
4. Al Shindagha Museum
5. Haggling: how it works
6. Other souks in Dubai
7. Practical tips
8. Old Dubai and souks FAQs

The walk, stop by stop

1. Al Fahidi Historical Neighbourhood

Also called Al Bastakiya, this is the best-preserved old quarter in Dubai: coral-stone and gypsum houses with wind towers, built from the late 19th century by merchants from Bastak in Persia. Wander the shaded lanes, courtyard galleries and small museums such as the Coffee Museum, and stop at the Arabian Tea House for breakfast. The Sheikh Mohammed Centre for Cultural Understanding here runs cultural breakfasts and lunches and heritage tours. Al Fahidi Fort, the old Dubai Museum on the edge of the quarter, is still closed for restoration.

2. The Bur Dubai Old Souk (Textile Souk)

Walk north through the covered lanes of the Old Souk, also known as the Dubai Textile Souk, whose traders came from India, Pakistan and Iran, near the Bur Dubai Grand Mosque with its tall minaret. Stalls sell fabrics, pashminas, kaftans, lanterns, scarves and souvenirs, and tailors can make clothes in a day or two. Expect friendly but persistent shopkeepers; a smile and a “no, thank you” is enough.

3. Al Shindagha Museum

Follow the Creek to the restored Al Shindagha Historic District at the mouth of Dubai Creek, where the ruling family once lived. It is Dubai’s largest heritage museum, spread through more than 20 restored houses (see the section below).

4. The abra crossing

Walk back to the Bur Dubai Old Souk abra station and cross the Creek on a traditional wooden abra, the water taxi that has carried traders since the city’s early days. The ride takes a few minutes, costs AED 1 per person in cash, and leaves when the boat fills; air-conditioned abras cost a little more. The view of the dhows, wind towers and both banks is one of the best in Dubai.

5 to 7. The Deira souks

• Dubai Spice Souk: lanes of sacks piled with saffron, cardamom, dried lemons, frankincense, rose buds, dates and teas, many run by Iranian traders. The covered Grand Souk Deira next door sells household goods, spices and textiles. Fewer stalls remain than in the past, but it is still the most atmospheric stop.
• Dubai Gold Souk (Deira Gold Souk): more than 300 jewellers under a wooden-roofed arcade, with shop windows of gold, diamonds and pearls. Browsing is free and the window displays are a sight in themselves.
• Deira Perfume Souk: a couple of streets along Sikkat Al Khail Street selling oud, attars, bakhoor incense and sandalwood; shopkeepers will blend a scent for you on the spot.

Opening hours and the closure cue

Two ways to do it

Morning version (9am to 1pm)

• 9am Al Fahidi before the heat, 10am the Old Souk as it opens, 11am Al Shindagha Museum, 12:30pm abra to Deira for the Spice and Gold Souks before the midday break.

Evening version (4pm to 9pm, best)

• 4pm Al Shindagha Museum, 5:30pm the Old Souk and Al Fahidi at golden hour, 6:30pm abra across at dusk, 7pm the Deira souks at their busiest, 8:30pm abra back to Al Seef for dinner by the water.

Al Shindagha Museum

Run by Dubai Culture, Al Shindagha Museum fills the restored houses of the Al Shindagha Historic District with the story of Dubai and its Creek, using films, models and interactive displays. Highlights include the restored house of Sheikh Saeed Al Maktoum, ruler from 1912 to 1958, and the Perfume House, which explains the role of oud, frankincense and fragrance in Emirati life.

It opens daily from 10am to 8pm, with last entry at 7pm; allow 1.5 to 2 hours. Dubai Culture lists the adult ticket as covering entry to two houses, so ask at the desk which pavilions are open on the day. Valet parking is available by the drop-off area, and guides can be booked through the museum’s website. Children under 12 must be with an adult.

Haggling: how it works

• Expect to bargain on spices, textiles, souvenirs and perfume oils; first prices for tourists are usually high.
• Ask the price first, then offer noticeably less and meet in the middle; keep it friendly and unhurried.
• Buying several items from one shop is the easiest way to a better price.
• Walk away politely if the price is not right; you will often be called back.
• Cash helps at small stalls, though many shops take cards.
• Do not haggle once you have agreed a price, and do not start bargaining for something you do not intend to buy.

Other souks in Dubai

• Souk Madinat Jumeirah: a modern, Arabian-style souk on waterways facing the Burj Al Arab, with fixed-price shops and restaurants.
• Souk Al Bahar: a small souk-style mall in Downtown, next to the Dubai Fountain.
• Naif Souk: rebuilt after a fire, a busy local market in Deira for fabrics, abayas and household goods.
• Weekend markets: the winter craft and food markets; see weekend markets in Dubai.

Practical tips

• Dress: cover shoulders and knees; this is a traditional area with working mosques.
• Photos: ask before photographing shopkeepers and people.
• Touts: ignore offers of “copy” watches and bags in the Old Souk lanes.
• Parking: very limited near the Deira souks; take a taxi, or park at Al Seef, near Al Fahidi or around Al Ghubaiba.
• Heat: from May to September, do the walk after 5pm.
• Ramadan: souks open later and stay open late into the night.

Old Dubai and souks FAQs